Portugal showcases fashion made to last at the United Nations

«We are gathering at an exciting time for the industry. After all, we are at New York Fashion Week, when attention is firmly focused on what is new and what comes next. But today we would like to shift the focus slightly and ask a different question: what is made to last?». This was the starting point for “Made to Matter: Portugal”, part of the UN Fashion & Lifestyle Network’s Fashion Week Series 2026, launched by Annemarie Hou, executive director of the United Nations Office for Partnerships, who pointed to Portugal as an example of an industry that combines accumulated knowledge with innovation. «Portugal’s fashion and footwear industries have built up savoir-faire and technical expertise, while continuing to invest in innovation and more sustainable ways of producing», she stated, also highlighting the importance of local skills, resilient value chains and collaboration between generations.

For César Araújo, president of ANIVEC and of the executive committee of the Projeto Lusitano consortium, it is precisely this continuity that sets Portuguese industry apart, advocating a future based on producing less and better and developing products designed for circularity from the outset.

«We do not have a planet B, we have a planet A», he stressed. «When we talk about sustainability, it is not just a word; it is the whole ecosystem that we want to create», he noted, arguing that the industry must recognise its environmental impact and take responsibility for reducing it.

Among the examples highlighted was Projeto Lusitano, geared towards developing a more circular value chain, from ecodesign and natural fibres to industrial production. César Araújo highlighted, in particular, the goal of restoring Portuguese, and European, capacity to spin fibres such as linen and of bringing designers, manufacturers and buyers closer together from the outset of product development.

Valuing people is another element of this strategy. César Araújo argued that the industry must invest in its workers and, above all, engage and attract new generations, passing on not only the knowledge accumulated throughout the sector, but also its passion for the industry. «There is no longer one person who does everything. It is a team», he emphasised, considering that Portugal has «a team of people passionate about making fashion».

A passion which, in his view, is also reflected in the product itself. «We are passionate about this industry», he stated, arguing that every garment or pair of shoes produced in Portugal is made «with heart» and «with passion». For César Araújo, it is precisely this connection between people, knowledge, tradition and industrial capacity that needs to be passed on to new generations and that can continue to differentiate Portuguese production in international markets.

Luís Onofre added resilience, the ability to find solutions and persistence to Portugal’s competitive advantages. The president of APICCAPS – Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association also argued that sustainability means addressing raw materials, social conditions and local production.

«Sustainability must also involve doing things locally, rather than globally», he maintained, adding that artisanal savoir-faire and the ability to create products involving human craftsmanship could become increasingly important, particularly in the luxury segment.

The added value of craftsmanship

The discussion continued with designers Joana Duarte, founder of fashion brand Béhen, and Armando Cabral, of the eponymous footwear brand, who focused on the relationship between identity, craftsmanship and contemporary products.

At Béhen, Joana Duarte works with Portuguese artisanal techniques at risk of disappearing, seeking to translate them into a language capable of reaching new generations.

The designer presented handmade pieces produced with materials such as linen, cotton and wool, avoiding, for example, plastic beads in favour of glass beads applied by hand.

More than preserving a technique, the aim is also to provide economic recognition to those who preserve this knowledge. «The first step is to recognise craftsmanship and the women who still know how to do it», she argued. «It is not just work they do before dinner. It is something else. It is art», she stressed.

Armando Cabral also highlighted the evolution of Portugal’s position as a manufacturing country. The designer, who is reorganising production for his footwear brand to increase manufacturing in Portugal, believes the country is no longer seen simply as a lower-cost alternative but is now recognised for its quality and savoir-faire. «For many years, people in the industry knew Portugal as a plan B, because of cheap labour or lower production prices. Today, people are beginning to know Portugal for what it is really good at. It is a country with a manufacturing heritage spanning hundreds of years», he stated, adding that «today, most major brands manufacture in Portugal. And we have family businesses that remain true to what they are. I think that is also where the luxury and authenticity that Portugal offers come from».

Measuring sustainability

On the technology front, Maria José Ferreira, research director at CTCP, presented examples from BioShoes4All illustrating the ability to transform waste and natural resources into new materials, including solutions using cork, recovered wool and coffee grounds.

She stressed, however, that innovation only has an impact when it reaches industry, brands and consumers. «Innovation that remains unused, that is not sold, that does not reach consumers, is not innovation», she pointed out.

Equally important will be moving from environmental claims to measurable results, using tools such as life cycle assessment to quantify water and energy consumption, emissions and the use of chemicals. «We have to move from sustainability claims to demonstrating that we have sustainability», she stated.

Kaleigh Tirone Nunes, co-founder of Fashion Catalyst, a consultancy focused on sustainability marketing and communications, noted that many of the solutions are already available and can be scaled up. The main challenge now will be to increase demand from brands and overcome price barriers, integrating sustainability from the planning and design stages of collections. «The innovation exists, and Portugal is ready to scale, or already has scale. What is missing is demand», she stressed.

At the close of the event, Carlos Moura, director and Trade and Investment Commissioner USA at AICEP, identified innovation, craftsmanship, talent, industrial capacity, creativity and sustainability as arguments for strengthening the international presence of the Portuguese sector, while Vera Ávila, deputy permanent representative of Portugal to the United Nations, highlighted the sustainability credentials of “made in Portugal”. «What we have demonstrated today, as Portuguese, is how artisanal savoir-faire and technology, when combined, are effectively contributing to a sustainable fashion industry», she concluded.